About Boutis: Preserving a Tradition

In a world of 10 second sound bytes and quick clicks and flicks on our browsers, instant gratification has become the norm. Clarity and focus are often lost as quantity wins over quality.

When it comes to needlework or other creative endeavours, investing time, thought and effort into a project gives greater understanding and appreciation for the process. It’s value increases in our eyes.

How is it then that some techniques survive the long term, while others are lost? What inspires longevity and creates a tradition?

Boutis is a needlework technique whose early beginnings can be traced back to 16th century Marseilles in France and has survived to modern times because it has been treasured and passed along from one pair of caring hands to another since the 16th century.

Design: Isabelle Thurin, Boutis by: Annie-Claude Pantel

Meticulously stitched by Annie-Claude Pantel (president of France Boutis) and perfectly framed,“La Belle Arlesienne” (The Beautiful Lady from Arles) is a beautiful example of a traditional Provençal design that builds on early designs to create a new interpretation inspired by experiences our time.

It is because adherence to authenticity of technique has been respected along Boutis’ journey and because of the investment of time and effort required in it’s creation, there is a greater connection to the work and an enthusiasm to share it with others. There is a need to protect its authenticity and validity in order to inspire future generations and to keep the keep the technique intact for them. Methods and techniques don’t lose their relevance if the technique is solid.

Today’s designer incorporates their own experience and inspiration into their work and in this way builds on previous interpretations while respecting the traditional technique and honouring the past. Two designers who exemplify the evolution of boutis in our modern day are Kumiko Nakayama-Geraerts and Hubert Valeri.

Boutis Design:
Kumiko Nakayama-Geraerts

Vermicelli, (side by side channels echoing the motifs), is a traditional design feature that dates back to 17th century boutis.

Focussing on the traditional does not make the method nor the design archaic. It has relevance today because it has been allowed to evolve and adapt to modern times, thereby securing it’s place into the future.

Boutis Design: Kumiko Nakayama-Geraerts
Traditional motifs and symbols are slightly adapted from classic designs in this composition. The space left between the motifs lends an air of lightness.

Boutis Design: Kumiko Nakayama-Geraerts
Friendship baskets holding large bouquets of flowers were very popular in early designs and here, Kumiko has incorporated her own sense of style by framing the basket with a sashiko inspired border.

Boutis Design:

“Cassis” Hubert Valeri

Respecting the basics of boutis, Hubert flawlessly incorporates his contemporary design sense with traditional techniques.

Boutis Design: “Vigueur”, Hubert Valeri
Two fish are stitched onto a white batiste with a coloured cotton poplin on the reverse side.

A quote I have read from Jenny-Adin Christie, a well known British embroiderer, says “Embroidery should never stand still, it should always look forward inspired by its heritage.” The above designs all serve as successful examples of this sentiment.

Sadly though, as so often happens over time, the technique has been misunderstood and misrepresented for commercial purposes. To raise awareness and a better understanding of the tradition, France Boutis along with all other Boutis associations across France, have set themselves the mission to secure and safeguard the practice of Boutis.

After four years of exhaustive study and research, an official document, which clearly defines the technique, was jointly published and presented to the French Ministry of Culture to have boutis recognized as distinct and different from falsely labelled mechanical imitations. In 2019, Boutis was designated as a cultural heritage in France and placed under the protection of the French Ministry of Culture.

Boutis has been listed as an “Intangible Cultural Heritage” and has an official UNESCO classification.

Practioners are granted permission to use the emblem if their work meets the requirements as described by the Cultural Heritage Inventory. The logo may only be used in direct association with work that meets these requirements and may not be used for commercial purposes.

France Boutis has a motto, it is a guiding principal:
“Promote, Transmit, Share”.
It is in this spirit that they direct their energies.

It is thanks to them and other boutis associations in France that Boutis has become a French heritage, a tradition that has stood the test of time. It tells a story of life, of family and of a society and its time. It documents history.

Design: Hubert Valeri

To celebrate the recent reopening of the Notre Dame Cathedral in Paris, Hubert designed this magnificent mandala composition to commemorate the occasion.

(More on the importance of symbolism in boutis design in a future blog.)

Boutis is described as: ”Work well done, respect for tradition, openness to modernity and transmission of knowledge.” (Quoted (and translated) from France Boutis’ FaceBook page September 11, 2024.)

My great thanks to Annie Pantel, Kumiko Nakayama-Geraerts and Hubert Valeri for granting me permission to use images of their work.