Introduction to Background and Description:

Boutis is a traditional needlework technique whose origins can be traced to the port city of Marseilles in the 15th century. Here it became a highly popular form of embellishing plain, most often white cotton and was a much sought-after textile into the 18th century. The resulting whitework created an elegant, embossed textile that would become a much sought after product and would be used for bed coverings, clothing items, home decor, etc. However, with the advent of the industrial revolution of the late 18thC and the invention of the sewing machine, came a decline in its popularity. It was during the latter part of the 20th century that there has been a renewed interest in the craft, thanks to the active promotion of many local artisans and their 31 boutis associations throughout France.

Photo:Antique

Sometimes described in English as “corded white work”, today it is most commonly referred to as "Boutis" (boo-tea). The name “boutis” comes from the ancient provençal word "emboutie" which means to stuff or to cord. The official names are “Piqûre de Marseille” (stitch of Marseilles) and “Broderie de Marseille” (embroidery of Marseilles).

Photo/boutoir

Not to be confused with quilting (matelessage) or trapunto, Boutis is a raised, dimensional textile sculpture, hand stitched and corded to create relief via an intricately patterned network of narrow, raised channels which highlight the designs and patterns through the play of light and shadow. It is of equal quality on both sides and completely reversible.

Photo/Illuminated

Photo/ Network of channels

The design is constructed by layering two pieces of cotton batiste together, stitching around motifs and narrow channels that outline the pattern and then, after the stitching is completed, inserting cotton yarn through these same channels and shapes. It’s with the addition of the cording that relief is created, which defines and gives life to the patterns and the motifs.

Photo/Stitching in Progress

Photo/Cording in Progress

The 21st century has seen a revival of boutis throughout France. Modern day French needleworkers who have learned the skill from previous generations of mothers and grandmothers, have once again embraced the technique and are energetically reviving its popularity among todays needlework enthusiasts. Not only is boutis regaining its popularity in France, it also has a growing following in other countries.

In France, boutis is a registered artisanal technique unique to Provence. In 2019 the technique and name were designated as an “Intangible Cultural Heritage” and have been placed under the protection of the French Ministry of Culture.

In 2019 France Boutis, along with the large community of boutis associations throughout France, jointly published an official document for the Ministry of Culture which defines boutis. It presents the results of an exhaustive study of the history and the technique of this greatly valued heritage. A small excerpt from the document describes boutis as, “… a technique of embellishing fabric, of giving it relief. Boutis is the only embroidery that looks as complete on the right side as it is on the reverse side. Boutis uses a simple technique but requires excellence.”

Photo/ICH logo

Today, boutis is a registered artisanal technique unique to Provence. In 2019 the technique and name were designated as an “Intangible Cultural Heritage” and have been placed under the protection of the French Ministry of Culture.