Textile Tour-de-France
If you are one of the lucky ones to be travelling to France this year, here are a few textile stops that you may consider including in your itinerary. This list is by no means comprehensive and is mostly based on my own findings. As new recommendations come my way I will update this post.
{Si vous faites partie des chanceux qui se rendront en France cette année , voici quelques étapes textiles que vous pourriez envisager d'inclure dans votre itinéraire. Cette liste n'est en aucun cas exhaustive et est principalement basée sur mes propres découvertes. Je mettrai à jour cet article au fur et à mesure que de nouvelles recommandations me parviendront. J'espère que mes amis en France se sentiront libres de me faire d'autres suggestions à ajouter à cette liste.}
*Museums
Musée de Cluny, Paris: “The Lady and the Unicorn” (Late 15th C)
Paris and surrounding area:
* "Musee de Cluny" - https://www.parisinsidersguide.com/cluny-museum-paris.html
"The Lady and the Unicorn Tapestries" https://www.musee-moyenage.fr/en/collection/the-lady-and-the-unicorn.html
To pique your interest in the making of a tapestry, you may wish to read Tracy Chevalier’s historical novel, “The Lady and the Unicorn”. Part fact, part fiction, the story is carefully woven to give insight into the makings of a tapestry in 15th C Europe.
* "Musée des Arts Décoratifs" - In Paris
https://madparis.fr/Collections-1130
Located in the NW wing of The Louvre, it's a museum dedicated to decorative arts. Fashion and textiles are one of the premiere collections in the museum.
Incredible medieval tapestries are on display at the Musee des Arts Décoratifs.
Cathedrals and churches are also excellent places to see exquisite historical ecclesiastical textiles.
Ecclesiastical needlework is magnificent and found in most cathedrals and churches.
* "Bayeaux Tapestry Museum", Normandy: North of Paris
https://www.bayeuxmuseum.com/en/the-bayeux-tapestry/discover-the-bayeux-tapestry/
Commissioned early in the 11th C and stitched with wool thread on a base of linen fabric, the Bayeux tapestry recounts the story of William the Conquerer and the Battle of Hastings in 1066.
* Lyon, South East France: “Textile Museum of Lyon/Musée des Tissus et des Arts décoratifs de Lyon"
https://en.visiterlyon.com/out-and-about/culture-and-leisure/culture-and-museums/museums/textile-museum
* "Museon Arlatan, Arles": Provence
https://www.museonarlaten.fr/en
Dedicated to the study of the anthropology of the south of France.
* "Musee du Vieux Nimes" (Museum of Old Nimes): Nimes, South of France
https://museedelaromanite.fr/en/around-the-museum/musee-du-vieux-nimes
* "Marseilles History Museum": Marseilles, Provence
https://www.mucem.org/en/the-mucem
* "La Maison de Boutis": Calvisson South of France
https://1-la--maison--du--boutis-fr.translate.goog/?_x_tr_enc=1&_x_tr_sl=fr&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=en&_x_tr_pto=sc
Dedicated to the provenance of boutis, the museum exhibits a magnificent collection of early works of Boutis.
*Shopping
Montmartre: ... is a textile district in Paris (near Sacré-Cœur) where it's many shops offer a vast array of fabric choices for all budgets. Actually, it's a bit overwhelming at first, but if you hang in there, you will be rewarded with a bulging bag of fabrics that you didn't even know you needed, but has now become crucial to your well being.
Montmartre in Paris:
One of the many floors of fabric in one of the larger shops. The quantity and variety of fabric available in these shops is insane, but what a great ride. My kind of Disneyland!
Paris: Tapisseries de la Bûcherie: https://bucherie.com/en/
On the left bank in Paris, across the bridge from Notre Dame Cathedral, is an charming needlework boutique known for it's needlepoint kits.
"Musee Souleiado": Tarascon
https://www.souleiado.com/en/museum
Souleiado fabrics are good quality colourful cotton prints inspired by the "les Indiennes". Les Indiennes were the vibrant and exotic chintzes and calicos that were imported from the east through Marseilles during the 17th and 18th century. Many cities and towns have a Souleiado shop that will sell you the fabric as well as finished goods.
"Les Olivades" : Provencal
https://www.etoffe.com/en/3_-olivades
Specializing in the design and printing of Provencal-inspired fabrics.
Cities and towns have a variety of smaller fabric and needlework boutiques. Ask a local or the concierge at your hotel for advice.
When you can, get off the beaten track, away from the high tourist areas. Every city and town has shops and boutiques where you can find good quailty fabrics at reasonbable prices. These are good places to shop for Provencal fabrics and table linens, often with much better quality goods than those aimed at tourists. Look also for linen shops which sell excellent quality linens for bed, bath and kitchen.
*Markets:
Most towns and villages have open air markets one day a week. (Larger cities may have a daily market). Aside from picking up the best local produce of the region, many of the larger markets also have textile vendors. Travel guides, online sources and local tourist offices are quite helpful in letting you know which day of the week the market will be held in the town you are visiting.
Listed below are some of my favourite markets and the ones that I am most familiar with.
L'isle sur la Sorgue is a postcard perfect, photogenic little town with a very well attended (jam packed), lively Sunday market. The town is known for it's antique vendors, including many vintage and antique textiles.
L'isle sur la Sorgue: (The Vaucluse)
https://www.provenceguide.co.uk/festivals-and-events/sorgues-area/outstanding-weekly-market-at-lisle-sur-la-sorgue/provence-4785433-1.html
Sunday morning market in l’isle sur la Sorgue, soon after market opening.
19th Century Toile de Jouy shown with a piece of raw cotton muslin. Both pieces were found in the town of L'isle sur la Sorgue, which is well known for it's antiques.
Check the shops along the streets adjacent to the market as well and wander through the winding alleys for more delights.
St. Remy de Provence:
https://www.alpillesenprovence.com/en/fiches/weekly-provencal-market-of-saint-remy-de-provence/
St. Remy is another charming French village with a large outdoor market. Along with a vast array of fantastic local produce, there is a large area reserved for textiles including many vintage pieces. I have found some lovely vintage textiles at this market, both finished linens as well as new.
Arles: (South of France):
https://www.seeprovence.com/events/calendar/arles-market-676242
Arles has another large, impressive market which it runs twice a week.
*** Tips and cautions for all markets:
Each town has a specified day for their market. Check on-line or at the tourist office for specifics in the region you are visiting. Here is a list of the various markets in the south and which day they are held in each town.
https://www.seeprovence.com/markets/
Markets generally start early and finish by 1:00PM, so the earlier you get there, the more choice you will have and it won't be as packed as it gets later in the morning.
Because market day is always well attended and squishy, hang onto your belongings and be aware of where they are at all times.
And last but not least, instead of only depending on restaurants, pick up a variety of the excellent local products at the market and have yourself a lovely little picnic. You will not regret it.
***
If interested in learning more about vintage and antique textiles in French markets, please visit my earlier blogsite at seamsfrench.blogspot.com at: https://seamsfrench.blogspot.com/2012/08/french-vintage_25.html