Defining Boutis:

A Simple Description

Sometimes described in English as “corded white work”, "Boutis" (pronounced “boo‐tee”) or "Piqûre de Marseilles" (Stitch from Marseilles) is a traditional French hand stitched and corded needlework technique, which uses embroidery stitches to create intricately patterned channels that will later be corded with yarn, thereby creating a raised design with three layers that is of equal quality on both sides and completely reversible.

“Colibri Garden”

Design: Elizabeth Janzen

Although it is slowly catching on, here in North America, the term "Boutis" is still relatively unknown and often misunderstood and confused with other quilting and embroidery techniques that have a similar aesthetic. So what then defines "Boutis" and distinguishes it?

In 2019, France Boutis, along with the large community of boutis associations throughout France, jointly published an official document for the Ministry of Culture which defines boutis. A small excerpt from the document describes boutis as, “… a technique of embellishing fabric, of giving it relief. Boutis is the only embroidery that looks as complete on the right side as it is on the reverse side. Boutis uses a simple technique but requires excellence.”

“Le Fil Blanc” (The White Thread), is a quarterly journal published by France Boutis. Devoted entirely to boutis, it is an excellent source for learning about all aspects of boutis and the people who make it.

Boutis is constructed by hand stitching a pattern onto 2 layers of cotton batiste. Using a running stitch (point avant) or a tiny backstitch (point de piqûre), the designs and motifs are outlined with narrow channels, 2 parallel lines about 4mm (1/8") apart. A network of channels surrounds the motif, supporting the design while giving it structure.

Channels surround the main motif, giving it structure.

When the stitching has been completed, cotton yarn is inserted into the channels, thereby raising the design, and defining the pattern.

When held up against the light, boutis will let the light pass through between the channels and in this way, illuminate the design. It's this play of light and shadow that is the essence of boutis.

Boutis Illuminated

The finished project, when held up against the window, illuminates the boutis. In this piece, it has been framed with “pojagi”, a traditional Korean stitching method.

To slightly misquote the 18th to 19th century romantic English poet John Keats,

"A thing of "Boutis" is a joy forever".

Join the journey and discover boutis for yourself.