Defining Boutis:

A Simple Description

Sometimes described in English as “corded white work”, "Boutis" (pronounced “boo‐tee”) or "Piqûre de Marseilles" (Stitch from Marseilles) is a traditional French hand stitched and corded needlework technique, which uses embroidery stitches to create intricately patterned channels that will later be corded with yarn, thereby creating a raised design with three layers that is of equal quality on both sides and completely reversible.

“Colibri Garden”: Design Elizabeth Janzen

Although interest is growing as more needle and thread artisans learn about boutis in North America, the term "Boutis" is still relatively unknown and often misunderstood and confused with other quilting and embroidery techniques that have a similar aesthetic. So what then defines "Boutis" and distinguishes it?

In 2019, France Boutis, along with the large community of boutis associations throughout France, jointly published an official document for the Ministry of Culture which defines boutis. A small excerpt from the document describes boutis as, “… a technique of embellishing fabric, of giving it relief. Boutis is the only embroidery that looks as complete on the right side as it is on the reverse side. Boutis uses a simple technique but requires excellence.”

“Le Fil Blanc” (The White Thread), is a bi-annual journal published by France Boutis. Devoted entirely to boutis, it is an excellent source for learning about all aspects of boutis and the people who make it.

Boutis is constructed by hand stitching a pattern onto 2 layers of cotton batiste. Using a running stitch (point avant) or a tiny backstitch (point de piqûre), the designs and motifs are outlined with narrow channels, 2 parallel lines about 4mm (approx.1/8") apart.

Design is crucial to boutis and distinguishes it from other needlework techniques. A network of channels surrounds the motif with a succession of channels, supporting the design while giving it structure.

When the stitching has been completed, cotton yarn is inserted into the channels, thereby raising the design, and defining the pattern.

Because the design is structured and is self supporting, one option could be to finish it with a simple hem at this point and use as a little suncatcher.

When held up against the light, boutis will let the light pass through between the channels and in this way, illuminate the design. It's this play of light and shadow that is the essence of boutis.

Luminosity is another distuishing characteristic of boutis.

Because boutis is of equal quality on both sides, it can be completely reversible. In this piece, I have chosen to finish it by framing it with “pojagi”, a traditional Korean stitching technique. Using it as a window panel further highlights it’s luminescence.

The finished project, when held up against the window, illuminates the boutis.

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